Cordoba

It was 27 degrees when we reached Cordoba in Andalucia. It was much hotter in the car, so hot that my husband, my even tempered and mild husband, really yelled at a local policeman not once but at least twice. This handsome young man was trying to redirect us away from the route Keith wanted to take to get to our hotel, which is right opposite the Mezquita. He must be used to tourist abuse as he didn't bat an eyelid, and he eventually acquiesced to Keith’s strident demands to go down a closed street!

We got to the Hotel Marisa with enough time to dump our bags, cross the street and enjoy a wander round the phenomenal Mezquita. The Mezquita, an Arab Mosque with a Cathedral inside its core, has to rank in the top 10 of architectural wonders of the world. It is incredible.

The scent of orange blossom enveloped us as we crossed the cobbled patio to enter the cool hushed world of Abd al-Rahman who began to build the Mosque over the existing Christian basilica of San Vicente in 756. It was enlarged by Abd al-Rahman II in 821, Alhakén II in 961 and then Almanzor in the 16th century. The Renaissance Cathedral was placed in the heart of the Mosque in 1523 along with the belfry tower you can walk through to enter the Orange Patio. Once you could climb it to view Cordoba laid before you but it has been closed for restoration for so long now it would now appear to be a nearly permanent state of affairs.


The Semana Santa parades started on time, only to be disrupted by rain. The floats had to take shelter in the archway entrances to the Mesquita. The floats we saw in Cordoba had the bearers hidden away underneath the float. They wore special padded headgear when lifting and replacement men were stationed all along the route. The bearers slow measured steps are helped on by the steady beat of drums and the music of brass bands.


The floats were preceded by orders of Easter Societies, Cofradías, carrying their regalia. The ones we saw in Cordoba were dressed in white robes with black hoods or tall pointed hats. At first sight they appeared sinister, all you could see were holes in the hoods for eyes. The association of the robes and pointed hats with the Klu Klux Klan, promulgated by the American film industry, was hard to get over initially. However, the beauty and sorrow of the candlelit Virgin Mary float they carried around the tiny streets of Cordoba soon overcame any feelings of unease. The crowds were very appreciative of the skill of the bearers and when any particularly difficult corner was safely negotiated a ripple of applause would echo round the streets led by excited teenage girls, proud mums, and grans supporting their young men.


We had some great after dinner caberet in the street outside the Mesquita. There was a classical guitarist, a flautist and various other band members, they were seriously good, we stood and watched for an hour or so. Maybe they were warming up for the International Poetry and music festival the following week.